Ask any menswear enthusiast their favourite season and most will say autumn. The temperature is ideal for layering, the textures are richer, and the colours are warm and forgiving: browns, rusts, olives and burgundies. It's the season when a man can wear almost everything he owns, in combination.
How layering works
Good layering has three levels, and each has a job:
| Layer | Purpose | Examples |
|---|---|---|
| Base | Comfort next to skin, absorbs moisture | T-shirt, oxford shirt, henley, flannel shirt |
| Mid | Insulation and visual interest | Merino sweater, cardigan, overshirt, gilet (vest), blazer |
| Outer | Protection from wind and rain | Field jacket, waxed jacket, overcoat, trench, suede jacket |
The rule of thumb: each layer should be slightly heavier and slightly longer than the one beneath it, or deliberately cropped above it. A shirt that hangs below your sweater and your jacket looks messy. A clean progression looks intentional.
The best autumn fabrics
- Flannel: brushed cotton shirts and wool flannel trousers are soft, warm and textured.
- Corduroy: trousers, jackets and overshirts. The wider the wale (ridge), the more casual it is.
- Tweed: the classic autumn jacket. See our British country style guide.
- Suede: jackets, chukka and chelsea boots. Treat suede with a protector spray before wet weather.
- Lambswool and shetland: fuzzy, affordable and very warm knitwear.
- Waxed cotton: a weatherproof classic for jackets.
The autumn colour palette
Autumn is when you can use earthy colours with confidence. Build around brown, tan, camel, olive, forest green, rust, mustard, burgundy and navy. A navy base with one warm earthy accent, such as a rust sweater or tan suede boots, is an easy win. Tonal outfits (different shades of brown, or of green) look expensive with very little effort.
Six autumn outfits to copy
- The city walker: grey roll-neck, charcoal wool trousers, camel overcoat, brown chelsea boots.
- Heritage weekend: flannel shirt, white tee underneath, dark jeans, olive field jacket, moc-toe boots.
- Smart casual office: oxford shirt, lambswool crew-neck, flannel trousers, brown suede loafers.
- Countryside Sunday: tattersall shirt, brown corduroy trousers, tweed jacket, brogue boots.
- The overshirt layer: white tee, olive or brown corduroy overshirt, stone chinos, suede chukkas.
- Rainy day classic: navy sweater, grey trousers, beige trench coat, dark brown leather derbies.
The gilet (vest) and the overshirt
Two pieces make autumn layering much easier. The overshirt, sometimes called a shacket, is a heavy shirt worn open like a light jacket. It's perfect for those 12–18°C days. The quilted or fleece gilet adds core warmth without bulk under a coat or over a sweater, and it moves easily from the countryside to the city.
Autumn shoes
This is boot season. Suede chelsea boots and chukkas are the most versatile. Leather lace-up boots handle rain and pair with jeans and heritage looks. For tailoring, brown brogues or derbies with a slightly heavier sole (Dainite rubber or commando) cope with wet pavements. See the men's boots guide for a full breakdown.
Spray suede and nubuck with a protector at the start of autumn, and treat leather boots with a conditioner or wax. It takes five minutes and can add years to their life.
Autumn socks and accessories
Swap summer's no-show socks for merino or wool socks in burgundy, forest green or mustard. Autumn is the best time to wear a little colour at the ankle. Add a wool scarf, leather gloves and a flat cap or beanie as it gets colder.
When the first frost arrives, move on to our winter outerwear guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many layers should men wear in autumn?
Usually two or three: a base layer (tee or shirt), a mid layer (sweater, overshirt or blazer) and, when needed, an outer layer such as a field jacket or overcoat.
What colours should men wear in fall?
Earthy tones work best: brown, camel, olive, rust, burgundy, mustard and forest green, anchored with navy, grey and cream.
Can you wear a turtleneck with a blazer?
Yes. A thin merino roll-neck under a blazer or overcoat is a stylish, tie-free alternative for autumn and winter.
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